Sprocket
08-08-2006, 10:26 PM
Okay be honest here. It's your wave, glassy waist to stomach high and ledging on the sand bar, you drop in somewhat late and if you stand your not going to make it, so you get the front foot up and back leg still down and grap the rail to hold a high line for the first section. Like a pig dog but front side. You skim high and tight and see the second section is going to throw, release the rail and drop down the face but still a tight down the line motion, get to below the midpoint and set the inside edge again and whoosh there goes the curtain over top.
Okay so far, but then the foam is so thick you don't see a thing but hold the line as you feel your way through. A short time later (time expands at this point we all know) you pop out in the clear and are on the shoulder. Stand up and continue pumping down the line and hit the oncoming lip for a nice little finish to the ride.
Your friend on the beach calls you Capt. Foamball and says you traveled about 75 feet in the foam and they could only see an elbow here, bathing suit there, but you were mostly covered. As the surfer would you add it to your tubes ridden column or leave it in the hey that was fun little wave column.
THis was my last ride to the beach tonight and know how I feel about it but is interesting enough to know what others think.
Okay so far, but then the foam is so thick you don't see a thing but hold the line as you feel your way through. A short time later (time expands at this point we all know) you pop out in the clear and are on the shoulder. Stand up and continue pumping down the line and hit the oncoming lip for a nice little finish to the ride.
Your friend on the beach calls you Capt. Foamball and says you traveled about 75 feet in the foam and they could only see an elbow here, bathing suit there, but you were mostly covered. As the surfer would you add it to your tubes ridden column or leave it in the hey that was fun little wave column.
THis was my last ride to the beach tonight and know how I feel about it but is interesting enough to know what others think.