View Full Version : Would you charge it?
xtremeandrew
01-18-2007, 10:44 PM
http://www.thedeathknight.com/Surf/bigwave.jpg
14thStSurf
01-18-2007, 11:41 PM
Not much room for error :(
Sippi
01-19-2007, 08:33 AM
What would you like on your tombstone
Sprocket
01-19-2007, 09:34 AM
Depends.....Would a ski be waiting to pick me up when I crash and burn?
How does the wave break? Is a big slopy thing or a death pit?
I dunno the water looks pretty cold from all that rubber. Prolly Mavericks
Way outta my league currently. Sign me up for a year long training course and I'd hit it yeah. (course complet with money for a year, all equipment provided and rub downs from bikini models every night ....
Sippi
01-19-2007, 09:55 AM
Due to the full suits and darkness...my guess is Mavs.
A lot of underwater rocks and known for the tombstone afterwards.
Ask Flea what he thinks of the spot if anyone has seen Riding Giants and his horror tail.
i'd give it a shot again...
vwwaves
01-19-2007, 11:47 AM
I've always wondered if surfing a wave that big is more about strategy, courage and understanding the break dynamics.
Some of those waves (talking strictly this type..!) just crumble and watching surfers ride those almost looks like snowboarding on water. Yes they are big, but very slopey which isn't super intimidating. Anyone who has snowbaorded or skied bowls, or chutes or even a steep diamond should understand my corrolation here.
What do you guys think?
Sippi
01-19-2007, 11:51 AM
I agree with the point that you are making. One of the aspects you are forgetting are the chops on the wave especially if you are not strapped in. One phantom chop and you need a sub to find you in the depths.
Sprocket
01-19-2007, 01:10 PM
yeah mountains don't flip over on themselves and bury you.
in all seriousness, i see the snowboard or wakeboarding analogy; however, the thought that one gallon of water weighs eight lbs would cross my mind. i would think that you would want to have a pretty fast learning curve.
Madame of Fact
01-19-2007, 02:34 PM
Do you take American Express?
Waterman
01-19-2007, 02:46 PM
i would if i could see it, the pics not working for me
vwwaves
01-19-2007, 02:46 PM
all you guys make good poiints. would be nice if we had someone on here who could speak from actual experience. That is a perspective that I would be interested to hear.
come on guys, lets plan a trip to todos santos! :eek: jk lol
Sprocket
01-19-2007, 05:05 PM
We I know someone who surfed over 15ft surf and said it felt like snowboarding as the turns had to be so drawn out due to the warp speed he got off the bottom turn.
xtremeandrew
01-20-2007, 01:04 PM
at least we know we have some honest people on here....
Supposedly Isla Todos Santos, off the Baja coast.
Personally, my cahones have shrivelled up on days 1/2 that big. But aren't those the funs days, when you peek over the wave that just rolled by, and say, "F#$%^ me"
A1A Shuffle
01-22-2007, 11:22 AM
that takes courage, balls and a death wish or just alot of experience
2fresh
01-22-2007, 03:20 PM
well my experience on big wave riding is pretty limited and I have never surfed as big as it is showed on the picture.
the max I surfed is a good triple overhead ++ at sunset cliff before Xmas (in cali they called that a good 16feet, in florida for the one who remember Isabelle on a thursday morning....twice that size). so here were my thought not in order:
when I paddle out:
-euh here I think it's going to be too big for me, I am retarded I guess, ohhh well let's charge it.
-first duckdive: hoolllly crapp I almost drown on that one....now it's proven that I am stupid
-second duckdive: my legs get rippen apart and I have a close feeling of death....and it is not fun, first time I realize that I took my surfing to a new level: let's call it the deathsurfing.
-yeeee I am finally on the lineup: just three on the lineup my neighboor who I drove with....he has surfed sunset cliff for 20+ years and there is another guy with a huge gun.
-I let pass quite a few because I was like: mo margin for error...and the peak is 3/4 miles from the shore, the shore is 60 feet high cliff for miles so if you break your leash you are ****ed and have to swim to mexico pretty much
-Ok now I go....yee I don't fall...let's go fast and far away from the mountain behind me: the ride was not fun cuz I was soo scared.
-second wave: I was like ok now I made so let's get serious and let's have fun.big let take off and I eat it so bad...really close to drown.I am exhausted.
-after 20 minutes of paddling and surviving: one more wave....this time it was a tiny one maybe double overhead+3feetover, I guess I almost enjoyed it and the nit was time for me to return to shore, happy to be alive.
Sprocket
01-22-2007, 04:10 PM
Ha HA that's a funny story Francky but I feel for ya.
First time I went to Hermosa we paddled out near the tree and it was triple overhead but didn't know it until we got out there. My leash snapped ducking the third wave of a set and took me over 30 min to swim in.
When it's that big after a wave goes by the foam is about 3-4 feet thick so it's REALLY hard to get up for air. Think about treading water with everything above your waist out of the water and you get the idea.
Madame of Fact
01-22-2007, 06:50 PM
Franck, you never cease to make me laugh. Delicious.
Did you cry when you almost drown?
Oh wait, there was noone yelling at you when you were paddling out.
I used to be ballsy and charge anything I set my eyes on. Now, I'm sskurred.
quest
01-23-2007, 10:49 AM
Hmmm, call me a big p*ssy but the thought of getting caught in the lip and pummeled 20ft underwater not knowing which way is up just doesn't sound appealing
chowcow
01-23-2007, 04:17 PM
ahhhhhhhhhhhhh! i had to say something.
a few things to know:
if you think you have to duck dive at that break you already f^cked up. in the wrong spot.
if you decide to go there is no turning back.
when going for that wave......there is no doubt YOU GO!
the answer to the real question.
NO i don't know enough about that break to go. if i lived there and saw it everyday hell yes! but that is just something you work for to get used to.
and frenchy you got 8ft. cal surf. glad to here it. now get to the secret spots and surf some serious cal breaks. your in the heart of so.cal. and you better get your butt to baja. that's where you will gain knowledge to get to the next level. a couple days here and there solo will change your views.
michelle
01-23-2007, 09:23 PM
it depends if the guy in the picture is alive haha
Muddog
01-25-2007, 09:13 AM
I only live once so I probably would, yea I would. It would be a rush of a life time.
Madame of Fact
01-25-2007, 09:35 AM
I only live once so I probably would, yea I would. It would be a rush of a life time.
A very short lifetime, indeed. lol.
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